The world’s longest Tokyo guide

and some personal venting

I am a person who leaves personal planning to last minute. I think this is the result of being a producer, somewhere along the line of producing 100+ shoots per year I lost the spark of planning in my free time. The last-minute strategy usually leads to disappointment when I can’t get reservations, or me overextending myself to find a way to get one. This trip I made it my focus to reconnect with the joy of a thoroughly planned trip. I researched and gathered information from a mix of sources. Regular travel magazines such as Condé Nast Traveler, Amigo accounts such as Melanie Masarin and Pia Riverola, a very funny and perfectly executed guide by an Australian couple (that I do not know), sent to me by my friend Veronica who happened to be planning a Japan trip for the exact same dates, and the good old random Instagram scrolling.

I didn’t count, but I believe I came to Tokyo with over 150+ stared places on my Google maps. Inspired by my friend Fede, I had in addition created a color coded excel with an hourly schedule of food and coffee intake, stores to visit and places to notice. For someone who has an effective and creative mind but lack the patience to execute and mainly complete the task (finishing this guide was a stretch) this was an accomplishment. It didn’t take long after we arrived in Tokyo for me to realize that my schedule didn’t make much sense. I’m a “follow the feeling” kind of person and when on ground I wanted to switch things around. Nonetheless it structured our days and made sure our “musts” were not missed.

Before getting into Tokyo recommendations, I want to offer (to myself probably more than you) some solid advice that goes for all travel planning.

1. Know the limit. Key is to focus on what you have time to see and not be bogged down by what you miss. Travel is like life itself. You can do anything you want you just can’t do everything.

2. Set an intention for the trip. Is vintage shopping your focus? Culture? Food? Partyyyy? If it’s a bit of all - like this Tokyo trip - know from start that you only have time for so much and accept your losses.

3. Get real with yourself. Some things are not for you. Even though you’re being recommended a spot by everyone have the courage to skip something that doesn’t excite you. We did not visit any of the large Tokyo museums on this trip but opted for the smaller and more architectural interesting places.

Below is my real list of places visited and honest opinions about them all. I also linked some spots I didn’t visit but wish I had time to visit, aka saving for next time. DICLAIMER - I’m not an expert at giving travel advice. I appreciate great food and hotels, I am a sucker in general for a good time and a beautiful space, but my vibe may not be yours. I don’t know. This is solely based on my own opinion and experience.

General thoughts / tips for Tokyo:

- Download the Japan Railway app. This is the best way to check train times and plan trips. I find Google maps always gave me worse suggestions.

- Fly into Haneda instead of Narita to save yourself some time and energy. Narita is 1,5h from the city whereas Haneda is, well, in the city.

- Download Airalo and purchase Japanese sim travel card prior to boarding the flight. That way you can switch to your travel sim the minute you land and be on your way.

- Japan is extremely organized and clean. Not a trash can in site (I heard Japanese bring their trash home) and yet barely a cigarette butt on the ground. Bring a small bag for any trash you might gather during the day or avoid take away at all costs. You’ll walk around with the paper cup for the rest of the day.

WHERE TO STAY

I love hotels. LOVE hotels. I’m not exaggerating when I say I spent a large chunk of my adult life in hotels. The “you won’t spend any time in your hotel, it doesn’t matter” is just not my mentality. However, I do agree that unless the hotel IS the destination (think Il Pelicano, Amangiri) it is unnecessary to pay a fortune especially since there are so many great options for less. The hotel research for this trip killed me. I wanted skyscraper and view, I wanted ryokan and onsen, I wanted countryside. I did not want to pay a fortune. I finally settled on below and it was 10/10. I’m not going to lie it wasn’t cheap, but it also wasn’t Aman expensive.

The first half of the trip we stayed at the Andaz in Toranomon Hills. I’m not usually a Hyatt girl but something with the aesthetic made me feel like it might be the right choice. It took guts to go with Andaz over a safer choice like Edition but bless, I am so glad I did. The interior design is low key Japanese luxury with amenities and service on point. I paid $100 extra for a view of Tokyo tower which in my opinion was so worth it (see image!). Lying in bed every morning buzzing up the shade to the sunrise and that tower was fantastic. It dawned on me when writing this that I did not try any food, so don’t hold that against me if its average. Toranomon Hills is a business district and nothing quite fun when you exist the hotel, however its very conveniently placed between Ginza and Shibuya and easy to get around.

After four nights in the city, I wanted us to explore the countryside for one hot second and stay in a classic Ryokan – a traditional Japanese inn. Although I thought I had time to plan, turns out all the fancy top ryokans within 2h train ride from Tokyo (like Asaba and Gada Kadan) were booked out since long. We ended up booking Ochiairo, a traditional ryokan on the Izu Peninsula. I found this place on booking.com - a place I rarely visit when planning I trip. I tried doing my normal research (i.e find it mentioned and linked through a trustable source such as travel influencer or travel magazines). No one mentioned Ochiairo. No one. However, judging the little I could see and read I feel this might be a truly unique Japanese experience. The hotel is from 1873 and traditional luxury in the best possible way. It’s the kind of place where you don’t need to bring anything. They have all the amenities available (including Japanese hair and face care products) and you can live in your kimono. Except for one other couple we were the only foreigners, and the staff barely spoke English. It’s quiet, and quaint with one private onsen that you can book in 50 min slots. We took a hike to Joren waterfalls in the morning which was a lovely 1h 15 min hike. November is a good time of year to go to also see the fall foliage.

When we returned to the city we switched skyscraper for hipster suburbia and stayed at Yuenbetti Daita – another traditional onsen hotel located in the Shimokitazawa district. I started every morning with an onsen visit and I had an amazing massage at the spa. Although the hotel is beautiful and we really liked Shimokintzawa as an area, I wouldn’t recommend staying out here. It felt too far from most spots we wanted to visit. I recommend spending an afternoon and having lunch or dinner out here though.

Hotels I am saving for the next Tokyo trip

Trunk Hotel Yoyogipark – great location and interior that looks lovely and serene.

Janu – Aman’s little sister.

K5 – a boutique hotel, interiors by a Stockholm based design studio.

Aman Tokyo – when I’m filthy rich

Hoshinoya – high rise luxury ryokan

FOOD & DRINKS

Most high-end restaurants in Tokyo are notoriously famous for needing reservations months in advance. Even if you’re this kind of person (if you are I’d like to meet you!), many restaurants don’t want tourists and make it extra hard therefore to book. I got kicked out of reservations for not having a Japanese phone number. However, there are lots of amazing spots that either don’t take reservations or where you can secure a table by waiting in line for a little while. Waiting in line is part of the Tokyo experience.

Before traveling I made a short list of what types of Japanese foods I wanted to eat while here. That way I could structure my color-coding schedule to secure one spot at least that served each. My list consisted of Wagyu beef, Ramen, Omakase Sushi, Yakitori, Izakaya, Tonkatsu, Tempura, Pizza, Shabu shabu, Gyoza, Unagi. I am probably forgetting something.

Our first night we went to a classic Tonkatsu spot – Tonki. They don’t take reservations, and we had to wait approximately 40 min in line. The restaurant serves pork katsu, that’s it. Another thing I love about Japan is how each place perfect their offering. They are not trying to cater to all but rather specialize in one thing. Another katsu restaurant we went to later in the week that I can recommend was Tonkatsu Maisen. Also f-ing delicious.

Shima is a well-known and traditional steak house that I had seen on multiple Instagram accounts, mainly due to their very popular wagyu sandwich. The sandwiches can be ordered to table or to go, but the classic wagyu steaks are also 10/10.

Shabu-shabu is a Japanese hotpot dish where you cook meat and vegetables quickly in boiling water and then dip in sauces. Fun fact, the term is onomatopoeic from the sound "swish swish" coming from stirring the ingredients in the pot. We had lunch at Shabusen in Ginza, highly recommend.

Tokyo has some of the world’s best Napolitan pizza. I don’t know why. I should ask ChatGpt. Anyway, we ate at Pizza marumo voted top ten best pizzeria in the world by Best Chefs Award. Other popular spots we didn’t visit are Savoy, Serinkan, PST and Pizza Bar on 38^th street

For omakase I had booked Udatsu Sushi after hearing that it should be a bit more unconventional. Turns out I don’t like unconventional when it comes to omakase. There is an episode in one of Bourdain’s series when he goes to Tokyo and eats sushi and he asks the chef “what’s the most important, the rice or the fish?”. The chef responds the rice. After going to Udatsu I can agree. We didn’t like the rice, at all, too healthy. Felt like eating brown rice sushi. Big no no. In hindsight I wish I had booked Sushi Takamitsu, but I would have had to be one of those people booking months in advance to secure a res. A girl can dream.

We had udon noodles at Menchirashi Udon and ramen at Ramen Break Beats – both delicious lunch spots. At Menchirashi you have to wait in line, order the Carbonara Udon but also one of the more traditional dishes. Ramen Break has to be booked in advance, they release their reservations 7 days prior. The ramen was great but it’s quite far out and I wouldn’t make the hike unless it’s an area you want to explore.

One night we met up with our friends Vero and JJ for Izakaya at Narukiyo. The place is (with lack of better word) a rock and roll izakaya spot with delicious food. There are no menus in English, we had noted down what to order and if you go, please order wagyu, tempura, sashimi and oysters. I’m sure they have more delicious and fun stuff should you feel inclined to play roulette. While at the restaurant we made friends with a French guy because he was smoking and wore a Sunset Tower Hotel hat (I have an identical one). Turned out he works in fashion, and we had lots of friends in common. He invited us to the private retro furnished bar Casbah, owned by the eccentric Reiko. We drank highballs and sang Karaoke on an old VHS TV; it was hilarious in the best possible way. I don’t know how you would get in, but I hope you do.

We went to Yasubei Ebisu for gyozas, and we realized we never had proper gyoza before. Not sure what the ones we eat in New York are, but these were perfect. They also serve a potato salad with eggs you mix at the table yourself. I always love a fun little interactive cooking moment.

We were fortunate to get a breakfast reservation at Yakumo Saroy – a unique dining space designed by the world-famous Shinichiro Ogata. His restaurant in Paris is one of my favorite spots. The space is stunning and serene and it’s a quiet and unique traditional breakfast experience.

Other delicious meals we had during the week included Tiktok famous fluffy pancakes at Flippers. Get there when they open so you can secure the first service. They’re delicious but standing in line for over 1h is not worth it. We had “breakfast” the first morning at the old fish market. When I was 18 and lived in Paris with my best friend Nicole she went to Tokyo and had tuna at 7am in the morning and since then that’s been on my bucket list. The fish market closed in 2018, only to open a new modern spot further out in Tokyo. The modern market is where they do the tuna action, but the old stalls and restaurants can still be found at Tsukiji (old market) which I believe is way more charming. We ate wagyu with uni, a delicious ramen and sushi with fatty tuna. Look for people in line for the best spots.

You can’t go to Japan without trying snacks and deserts. Matcha cakes, matcha pudding, mochi and all kinds of random snacks. If it looks funny or delicious, try it. Yolo. I don’t even like matcha and had different versions of matcha every day.

The convenience store is a country of its own – Lawson, 7Eleven and Family Mart. They each have their version of the famous egg sandwiches which you’ll end up hearing about on every Tokyo guide you read. It gives children vibes with the crust cut off, but it was good. Go and explore. 7eleven has their own smoothie station. You buy a frozen cup with fruits and veggies and then mix yourself.

My favorite tea house we visited was called Chiyaba and I like the chai as much as the interior

Tokyo bar hoping is a great way to spend the nights. They are big on vinyl bars (sidenote have you ever thought about how a vinyl is made? Wild). I got recommended Bar Martha, a vinyl bar in Ebisu and we loved it. Wannabe just sounds better on vinyl. Another popular spot in Shibuya is Grandfather’s. I didn’t love this spot as much. It felt more touristy which is not an issue in itself, but it just didn’t have as strong of an identity as the other spots we went to.

My favorites were Bar Piano (the size of a teaspoon!) and Little Soul Café. Bar Piano is in a little ally where all the bars are mini sized which makes it even more fun. Little Soul Café in Shimokitazawa is open 7 days a week and has been so for 24+ years. The owner has a soul vinyl collection of 15k+ records and takes the music creation very seriously. I was so impressed by him waking up to a wall with thousands of vinyl records and just knowing where to look to find the right one. He also makes delicious drinks. We had whisky sours in ice cold glasses, perfect end to an intense and wonderful trip. Most bars allow indoor smoking which brought me back to teenage crime years. We went to Aoyama tunnel on a Tuesday so it was empty, but this place should have some really good party music. We also were recommended Vent for techno which, hadn’t we been so God damn jetlagged, would have been right up our alley.

We didn’t end up going to Golden Gai Alley, but it would have been fun to see so I am saving that for my next trip.

CULTURE

I have always been such a Kusama fan so visiting the Yayoi Kusama Museum was a treat for me. Its small with multiple floors, showcases her early work and some well-known pieces like a large yellow pumpkin. We also visited Nezu Museum – showing premodern Japanese and East Asian art. The items in here are beautiful. Beyond. On top both the building and the large garden is worth visiting. It’s a quick visit easily planned into Minato / Shibuya day.

Kyu Askura House is an old residential house built in 1919 in the Daikanyama district. It displays the Taisho era architecture and a beautiful Japanese garden. I’m a sucker in general for house visits, and anyone who paid attention to the LA architecture can see where lot of the inspiration came from.

One afternoon we walked the very pleasant walk through Yoyogi Park into Meiji Shrine, dedicated to Emperor Meiji. Its beautiful and will be on all Tokyo Guides you read. Our friends went in the morning, and I would follow their lead to avoid the masses.

Another tourist spot worth visiting is Senso-ji, an ancient Buddhist temple in Asakusa. We took a taxi right after our breakfast at the fish market and at 9am it was packed. There is no fee, but make a donation. Last year I went to Kathmandu and spent an afternoon with a Buddhist monk who shared his wisdom, and after that all Buddhist spots feel special. From the temple we walked through the neighborhood, had a coffee at Fuglen, a Norwegian coffee shop that has a few outpost around the city, into the Kappabashi kitchen street that I write more about below. In general, walking through neighborhoods is the best way to get a sense of Tokyo’s urban design.

It goes without saying, but you have to make it to Shibuya Scramble Crossing

SHOPPING

Tokyo is famous for its fashion and in particular vintage shopping. As a vintage lover I had high hopes, but unconventionally; I didn’t love it. Maybe my style is just too different, or I didn’t find the right spots. Anyway, we came home with a suitcase of other goodies – lots of ceramics and beauty products.

Kappabashi is the kitchen supplies shopping street where you can find heaps of beautiful ceramics, kitchen supplies and handmade Japanese knifes. I liked the store Dengama for ceramics but if you spend a couple of hours walking up and down you can find all sorts of great kitchen things.

French brand LEMAIRE opened a store in Ebisu in a former private residence from the 1960. The space is worth visiting as much for the fashion as for the setting.

Chicago in Harajuku was a vintage shop I enjoyed. Lots of Americana / Western but also kimonos and old Japanese bomber jackets which is more my vibe.

Jil Sander is having a moment, but their Omotesando store designed by renowned architect John Pawson should have a moment too. Limestone floors and wood covered walls makes you want to move in.

Allegory home tools is a small interior and kitchen design store with beautiful handmade ceramics and tableware. Next door is Officine Universelle Buly – although a Parisian brand the interior of the store is worth a visit in itself.

We both loved Daikanyama Tsite – a large complex with various bookstores and a very nice restaurant on the top floor. We spent most time in the art, design and fashion book building (no surprise) and then had a negroni as a pre-lunch snack. Another book store you’ll hear a lot about is Cow Books.

For vintage – I did like Kindal. Its more western luxury in good conditions and they do have multiple stores.

We walked past Casa Fline and I stopped cause a saw a Chloe inspired white skirt in the window. The only fashion piece I purchased.

Boutique Takenoko has everything for the showgirl in making, or the Halloween party, or Burning Man. Next door I paid to cuddle with small baby pigs. Not sure I like that. Not sure its ok.

Out of everything, my favorite thing to buy was skin and hair care. I went wild both at the pharmacy and Don Quijote – Japan’s mega discount store. I went on Tiktok before and screenshotted a million things. So far I like everything I bought and I gave away a bunch for xmas. If you want my list, DM me.

If you made it to the end I salute you. This was fun, maybe I do it again sometime.